Hairdresser, Salon and Stylist Hair Tips

Question: Well got my touch-up and my hairdresser said that I had approximately 2-3 inches of new growth! UNBELIEVABLE!!!!! I am so proud; I don't know what to do with myself. But I've gotta tell you, while I truly love my hairstylist, Keisha, I still have question about her total knowledge of black hair. Don't get me wrong, she advises her clients to keep heat out of their hair as much as possible, and to deep condition their hair, but I get the feeling that she doesn't really know what a REAL deep conditioner is. She put this Aveda product in my hair called Curessence and told me it was a fabulous deep conditioner. Well, since I'd never heard of it, I asked to see the bottle. (To keep her from being too insulted, I asked her if it was a product that she has advised her clients to use between their hair appointments with her.) She said yes, that they all just LOVED it, because it gives the hair a great shine. Well, I read the instructions and SORRY, but it suggests leaving it in the hair for no more than 2-5 minutes. THAT AIN'T NO DEEP CONDITIONER, MAN!!!!! Long story short, I played along and said to her that she must have known the real benefits of the product and made her clients leave it their hair for 30 minutes, to which she agreed. (I'm shaking my head right now, Cathy.)

Answer: You are so right about your hairstylist and the 2-3 minute conditioner. I don’t care how long you leave it on it is still an instant conditioner. The ingredients in it coat the hair. They do not improve the condition of the hair which we so desperately need!

Question: My name is Danita I'm a licensed cosmetologist in the state of MD. I must say that I enjoyed your book and found it to be informative, even though in your book it seems that you have had hairstylist that don't agree with you. I am a cosmetologist who is not just interested in getting paid but am interested in the health of my client’s hair. If possible I would like to know what the ingredients are in your conditioner and your spray. I am currently studying the different ingredients in hair care products and I totally agree with you on black hair and moisture. I am looking for a product that I can use on my clients as well as recommend the product for home maintenance however it has to be cost effective for me also. Any help you can give would be appreciated. Thank You!

Answer: Thank you for the compliment about my book. It is always exciting to see people in the industry embracing the method which obviously works but some refuse to even give it a chance because I am not licensed in the industry. You would not believe how many people call me from that area looking for the products. (Just had a lady call today) Most people don’t like to pay shipping charges but will because UBH products are some of the best products out there at actually improving our hair. To review our product ingredients, go to the website product page you are inquiring about and scroll to the bottom for the ingredients list.

Hairdressers that are afraid of losing clients don’t care for me either because I teach black women how to properly care for their own hair and add length if they want or just learn how to have healthy hair. The hair care professional that properly cares for their client’s hair will not lose clients and will gain more by offering good products to their customers.

Question: I appreciate the innovative and honest work you have done to help in the field of our hair. I am having a bit of trouble getting it all together with a hair professional. If they can do one thing they can't or won't do another. Example: If I can find a beautician that uses Affirm the other things that you list to help with growth are not things that they seem willing or able to do. Unfortunately I have not met up with many beauticians that can apply and work a relaxer through in the time frame that you say is reasonable in your book. I have quietly observed so many operators "pull the relaxer all the way through" on every retouch. And trying to talk to them about not scrubbing through the hair is met with something akin to hostility. They say things like I need to get the relaxer out real good. I even had one operator embarrass me by laughing out to the operator in the booth next to her and snidely saying: Oh Lord, Miss gonna grow her hair long is worried, like it's going to grow to the ground if I don't get it clean. One beautician actually told me it was not really necessary to use neutralizer because the pH of water was able to neutralize the relaxer! I am so tired. I was wondering would you be willing to share the name of your salon and stylist? I am really tired of trying to be nice and giving up my money (and hair) to the folks around here.

Answer: You bet I will share my hairdresser with any one. For years I used Ed Gillespie. His number is under the partners section of my website. Expect to book your appointment several weeks in advance as he is very busy. People want to know who can they trust and I say ED! (It is my understanding that Ed no longer uses Affirm relaxer)

BTW, the misinformed stylist that said water will neutralize the relaxer - STEAR CLEAR OF HER she is a hair disaster waiting to happen!

Question: I came back from the hairdresser about 3 hours ago. I called her earlier and told her about your book and asked if she could use the Preservo. She said with the Affirm, she always uses it. When I got there this evening, my hairdresser coated my scalp with something that came with the relaxer. When I asked her about the Preservo to protect my hair, she said she had a hair protector that came with the Affirm, but it wasn't called Preservo, it had some other name that I never heard of. I think I will contact Affirm and ask if they're including a different hair protect with their relaxer. I did see the bottle and it was some kind of hair protector. It was sort of sticky and greasy and she coated my hair heavily with it. That's the first time she's ever put anything on my hair. I brought your book with me to show her, she didn't even give it a glance, which is not like her. Usually when I want to show her something, she's anxious to see it. I'm assuming she's already heard about the book. Anyway, I will purchase the Preservo myself and tell her to use it the next time.

After she finished putting the Affirm on, my hair, she had overlapped by 3". When I questioned her, she said I had a lot of new growth. I only had about 1-1/2". She put me under the dryer to condition my hair for 15 minutes and then after washing it out, put me under the dryer again to dry my hair instead of using the blow dryer. She put another leave in conditioner on my hair while it was drying. While I was under the dryer, another client came in with what I thought was a head full of hair, long and thick. She also got a relaxer. Her relaxer was overlapped about 3 inches too. After this woman's hair was conditioned for about 15 minutes, the hairdresser started clipping her ends. I don't know what kind of conditioner that was, but her hair didn't look that good. I had the same conditioner, but my hair looked better, probably because I've been using your conditioner and the mist spray. She cut very little hair off, but all the thickness of this woman's hair was in the upper part of her hair. The last 6 inches were terribly thin. Although she only clipped the ends a little bit, the ends of her hair still looked straggly, not like the rest of her head. I'm beginning to wonder if that's from all that overlapping of the relaxer.

I don't know what to do. One of the reasons, I stayed with this hairdresser so long was because she took great care to make sure the relaxer was washed out properly. But all that overlapping might be doing just as much damage. I've gone to a total of 7 hairdressers since I've been here and they all overlap heavily, maybe that's the way they're taught in the schools. Anyway, I do remember she used to only put the relaxer on about 1-1/2" when I first started going to her. I will make sure my next appointment is made in about 10 weeks, and ask that she only treat the new growth and no more. I should get my hair relaxed every 8 weeks, but don't because most hairdressers have a tendency to put the relaxer on too heavy. I'm wondering, maybe the reason why she overlaps so much is to make sure she gets all the new growth. There probably are parts of the hair that grows faster than other parts. Maybe she needs glasses. Anyway, I tip her at least 20%, so she should be able to spend an additional 5 minutes on me. Shes a very nice person and I don't want to offend her, but she did seem a little irritated that I was trying to tell her how to take care of my hair. I appreciate your advice and will let you know how the next relaxer goes.

Answer: The relaxer your hairdresser probably used was Affirms first relaxer. The one I last used (when I was relaxing my hair was Fiberguard.) The first Affirm relaxer did contain a pink product in the box that was put on the hair (Protecto) to protect the already processed hair. I also found it difficulty just keeping the product on my new growth but have found that it has not hindered my hairs health even if the product is put on already processed hair. I would definitely avoid the ends which was not difficult considering how long my hair was then. You will not be able to buy the Preservo as it is a product only sold to licensed hairdressers. Also if she is using the first Affirm relaxer, the Protecto is the right product for that version of Affirm. As product manufactures of chemicals get smarter, they develop to protect the already processed hair because it is very difficult to keep the chemical off the already processed hair. Since your hair is in good condition from using the conditioner, and if you are not experiencing excessive breakage, you should be okay. Hairdressers hate when you try to tell them what to do but I feel it is a requirement since it is your hair and often they dont know what the heck is going on themselves. It does not surprise me that she was not receptive to my book or method. (you are right she may have already seen it and know I am not kind to ignorance) After all she thinks she knows more than you and I put together. If she know so much why is the other ladies hair straggly looking? Because of the lack of protein is my thought. Women who use my conditioner with braids tell me that when they remove the braids the hair closest to the scalp is thick and the hair that was under the braids is thin. The conditioner builds on the hair making it thicker. Hair that is covered by braids does not benefit from the product because it is covered up. If you think you can trust her, stick with her. If you think she is triffling, use her at your own risk. Continue to look over your shoulder at her because one mistake can set you back years!

The reason I have a problem with the average hairdressers is because they are always trying to skip steps. My own hairdresser said to me that you dont have to do that step now because it is not included in the box. Preservo is not included in any box of relaxer. You have to purchase it separately. Ensure she uses this. Grease is not going to provide the same benefit as the Preservo.

As you progress through the next few weeks, let me know how your hair is doing. I think you will find you will be okay. From what you have told me your treatments made a world of difference based on your observation of yourself and the straggley hair lady. You are on the right track. Dont get discouraged because the truth has set you free! Sounds a bit cliche but none the less it is the truth.

Question: I just recently saw your website and I must say that I am very impressed with your insight. I am 22, and have relaxed hair. My cousin is my hair stylist and sometimes, I question her judgment in providing the best hair care for my overly dry hair. My roots get very tight, dry and brittle, even right after it is relaxed. At one time, she changed from a no lye to a lye relaxer because she said it would provide a bit more moisture. Due to that, my hair has started to break increasingly. She says, not to worry, because 1. Your hair sheds about 50 strands a day and 2. My hair is still healthy around parts that have not broken off. I just recently sent a check for your conditioner and hope it will help. Will my hair have a hard time growing healthy and stronger and what do you recommend I do?

Answer: First I recommend you read my book. Unfortunately the industry can be our worst enemy. (Your cousin included) There is so much ignorance in the hair care industry and I am very vocal about exposing them. Obviously if they knew what they were talking about we would already have long hair! The book will open your eyes and you can stop your hairdresser cousin from ruining your hair.

Question: I feel less anxious now, knowing that my hair does not NEED for me to switch chemicals. I know that you have probably heard it all, but would you believe that my hairdresser was telling me that she needs to switch the chemical back and forth between two different relaxers because my hair will "get used to a certain relaxer"? I have often wondered how this could be true, since new hair has grown in each time that I get a retouch. I believed that if my hairdresser was saying it, then it must have been true. Yet, you have used the same relaxer for years!!!

Answer: This just shows you how ignorant some of those people really are. And we are supposed to TRUST them!!! Know your hair girl and they can't snow you! Yep I have used my relaxer for years and will NOT change either because I know the effects of doing that. Changing different chemicals can destroy your hair.

Question: Cathy, you were so right about so many hairdressers!!! My hair dresser used to saturate my hair with those oil sprays. I asked her to stop, and she laughed at me. I KNEW Black people did not need all of that oil. Needless to say, I don't have to put excess oils in my hair. I moisturize everyday just like you said in your book. It's strange, because in my quest, it never dawned on me that I would need to moisturize every day. Thank GOD for you Cathy!!! My hair is not long now, but I know that it will be.

Answer: You said USED to which I hope means you dont use that joker anymore! God needed a big mouth messenger who is not afraid to tell the truth and dispel the myths that are associated with our hair and to expose the industry. I feel so blessed to be the carrier of the message!

Question: Help!! A week ago I went to the salon and got my touch up and after he washed my hair he blow dried it straight! Before I could even object he had begun frying away!!! And after he did that he gave me this little lame flip style and charged me 85 bucks!! It didn't even seem like he cared one bit. He was about to put curls in my hair and that would have been even more! I feel like such a fool.. And now my hair is very brittle and is breaking easier than before. I had to moisturize it three times today! Do you think that the protein treatment along with your conditioner will help me recover my hair??? Also I have been looking for it and haven't found it yet is there any other protein treatment you can recommend. Please help because right now I feel like such an idiot.

Answer: Protein treatments will be you saving grace! I unfortunately don’t know, nor do I use any other brands besides Aphogee. Hurry out and get a bottle at Sally's in your area.

Question: I just left I ordered your book. I am 18 years old and nervous but need to do something about the condition of my hair. My former beautician told me if I got bonded weave my sides would thicken up and my hair would be thicker, but it broke out a big patch in the back, and that was in December. My hair is still thin. I bought some products today for my hair, when I order your book, do I need to take back these products (shampoo and conditioner) and replace them with yours? How long does it take for your hair products to arrive?

Answer: SONYA, The ignorance in the hair care industry is shocking. The person who glued in your hair is obviously ignorant and money hungry. You have taken the first step to correcting your hair care problems. The first step is getting an understanding of why their method of hair growth is wrong and will NEVER grow your hair out. The shampoo you purchased may be okay. The conditioner you purchased will probably serve no benefit to you because the products made for us are by whites and men. They don’t use that stuff so it doesn't do anything beneficial for our hair.

When you get my book your eyes will be opened. Use the knowledge to regain your hair and ensure that the next hair dresser does what you say instead of what they feel like doing. You will be in control after reading my book.

Question: My hairdresser insists on clipping my ends every 4-6 weeks. She seems to cut more than what has grown in that time; consequently my hair has the appearance of not growing at all. I do NOT use hot curlers or curling irons on my hair; I have my hair professionally wet set each week and deep conditioned. I do not wash or style my own hair. I don't even use curlers in between salon visits. I do have an Affirm relaxer. Is all this clipping necessary? I would think that my hair should be in excellent condition because of the care it receives. How often should someone who gets deep conditioners each week and avoids heating appliances get their ends clipped? HELP, I want my hair to grow long!! Also, I am from the St. Louis, MO area can you recommend a stylist for me?

Answer: It is NOT necessary to trim your ends and it is advisable that you read a copy of my book to understand what other things the "professionals" are doing that could cause your hair harm and to appear to not be growing. Also ensure your deep conditioning products are benefiting your hair and that you are not just simply wasting your money. I do not know anyone in the St Louis area that I would feel confident to send you to.

Question: I went to a different stylist (not the same shop or same stylist I usually use) and she re-touched my new growth. I did think she left the solution in a little longer than usual, but stupid me, didn't ask what she was using. When she was finished, I was fine, no burning. Well, when I washed my hair the next two weekends, I suffered a lot of breakage and hair coming out at what seemed like the root! I've since returned to my regular stylist and she is giving me conditioning treatments, but my hair is extremely thin and lifeless now. I'd like to give my hair (what I have left) a rest so that it will grow back! I usually wear a ponytail toward the end of the week so my hair gets a break from handling, but is that ok for the length of time it will take to get my hair back into some level of health? I'd really like your thoughts and your advice...thanks!

Answer: Christine, It appears you have learned a lesson that I continually remind people of which is ensure that the product is the same one you always use and do not let them change it on you. What I would recommend you do at this time is go to Sally's Beauty Supply and pick up some Aphogee Reconstructor. Put the product on your hair after you wash it and let it dry hard. Do this for at least 2 -3 times (after each washing or until the breakage is under control.

When you say "rest" I am not sure what you mean. A rest from relaxers? Getting your hair back healthy will take some time to do but the reconstructor will help perhaps faster than just regular treatments.

Question: My hairdresser said my hair was breaking off (but to me it was longer and more healthy), so she trimmed it. She showed me where it was thicker closer to the roots but thinner as it got longer. So she trimmed it, a lot. She said I could be over conditioning it. I use your deep conditioner every 3 days. Is this too much?

Answer: It is NOT over-conditioning that is making your hair thinner at the bottom. Your hair is breaking along the hair shaft because of lacking protein or the use of a hairbrush. If you have not read my book, I would suggest you do to find out what the requirements are for a good hair conditioner.

Question: Cathy I will have to find a new hair stylist because my daughter shared what she had read in your book to the current one and she disagrees with what you have said about clipping the hair and almost everything. Since using your products my daughters hair has gone from shoulder length to the mid of her shoulder blades and that is in only 3 short months! She is not happy because my daughter used to go every other week for a shampoo and deep conditioner.

Answer: That is a typical response because of ignorance in the industry. If that lady is that upset with your daughter, don’t EVER let her sit in her chair again because she will probably try to sabotage your daughter’s efforts!!

Question: I've had long hair all my life. I'm 24 years old, & currently, it hangs down to my lower back. Now I want to cut it short (4 inches). I know so many black women out there constantly talk about their hair length & how they want it to be long, so some may think this a shame. I'm just sick of dealing with it. I first got a relaxer when I was 19 & have only ever used “Just For Me” Children's Relaxer. I always let it air-dry, and don't use any heat-styling tools except on the rarest occasions. I only use a brush every once in a while. Basically, my hair is relatively maintenance-free (except for relaxer touch-ups every 8 weeks or so.) First, I would like to know if using a children's relaxer is really any safer/more gentle than any other no-lye relaxer.

Secondly, I'm afraid that if I chop off my hair, it will never grow back to this length. I've heard horror stories of black girls cutting off their long, HEALTHY hair, only to realize that it's never going to grow back to its full length. I just don't want to wake up one day to discover that I killed my hair - that it's reached the end of any and all growth cycles, and if by some chance it does grow again, it will never reach farther than my shoulders. I must remark that I have NEVER cut my hair more than 1 inch to even up raggedy ends. I would be devastated if after 24 1/2 years of living with long hair 5 inches from my bottom that it would NEVER be that way again.

Please, please give me some of your expertise so I can put this issue to rest!! Thanks, QJS PS I live in Denver, Co, any recommendations as to a good, TRUSTWORTHY salon?

Answer: I don’t think you will ever have to worry about not being able to grow your hair back to its longest length because it sounds like you have Type 3 hair, which is not as dry as most afro hair. (Also you can’t "kill" your hair as hair is already dead!) If you are brave enough to get the Halle Berry cut, why shouldn’t you have it? Unless you are afraid you will miss your hair! Give a lot of thought to it because you yourself know how much your hair grows each time before you get the next retouch. Judging from your comments, your hair is about 24 inches or more. If your hair grows 1/2" per month it would take about 4 years to get it back. Can you live without that beautiful mane for that long if you suddenly wanted it back?

The ingredients in adult and children relaxers are the same. Put both boxes side by side and read the ingredients. Children’s relaxers are only different in who they are marketed to, children’s parents.

I have 1 salon in Denver I recommend. I have used and recommend Ed Gillespie in Cherry Creek. If you are considering that cut I would recommend him. Only problem with Ed is you will need to book you’re appointment about 6 weeks in advance! He is very busy but he is also very good! He CAN and will create any hair style you imagine, and on ANY head. He is just that good!

Question: I've been using your products religiously for the past 6 months, they work really well with my hair and I am very pleased with your product. I have also been following your hair care tips, I don't wash my hair twice a week, because I don't have a lot of time to wash hair, but I do wash it at least once a week. I also haven't used heat on my hair for 6 months. The only time I ever use heat is if I go to the salon...which leads me to my question. I just had the most horrible experience at a salon, where the hairstylist told me everything I was doing was wrong. She seemed disgusted and in disbelief that I didn't want her to curl my hair, after she had put an enormous amount of heat on my hair from a hairdryer. She also was very angry at me for not wanting to get my ends trimmed. She basically told me that all my length was ends, that it's dead ends, and my hair is not growing out healthy and that it's all going to fall out. She even had the nerve to tell me that my hair was breaking off, despite the fact that she was using a fine tooth comb on wet hair...I'm just really confused now, I admit my ends are not the greatest looking thing in the world, but your techniques and products have helped me keep my hair on my head with a relaxer. My hair has never been this long in my life, and I've been able to keep it this long with your techniques. I admit there are some parts of my hair that's shorter...but those are at the edges of my hair...where originally it was the kinky part of my hair on the sides. So I don't consider that breaking off. I'm just really frustrated, and wanted to ask you how you respond to people who complain about your ends? I've even seen people go as far as to say your hair doesn't look healthy, which really makes me angry because obviously you know what the heck you're doing and they don't.

Answer: It saddens me that there is so much ignorance about our hair in the very industry that is supposed to guide us. If YOU feel bothered by straggle ends then my recommendation is to have them trimmed. Do not be pushed around by some money driven hair stylist that wants to do nothing but claim that your newly experienced “growth” is because of THEIR trims. You are experiencing the same hatred that I too have experienced because I refuse to subject myself to THEIR ignorance. Your hair has improved because of these products and techniques. You are in control if YOU make the decisions about YOUR hair. You are on the right track; do not let a hairdresser sabotage your efforts and your journey!

Question: Someone told me I washed my hair too much. I wash it every three days and since my hair is severely damaged I deep condition it every time. Also the lady that applies perms to my hair (and my two younger cousins) wants to trim our hair every time she perms it and she takes away much needed length. Her excuse is my ends need to be trimmed because they don't look good. I also have another beautician who takes care of my trims and she told me that the other beautician is just scissor happy. I know you don't get trims to prove that it has nothing to do with hair growth but do you have any idea why this lady cuts my hair every time she applies a relaxer? She says something about the weight of my hair needing to be on the ends. What does she mean?

Answer: Anybody who is telling you - you wash your hair too much - ask them if they have ever written a book on hair growth or researched it. The answer will probably be NO. - You can choose to follow a proven documented method or traditional baloney! Examine this statement -"the weight of my hair needing to be on the ends" - if it sounds ridiculous and suspicious -it probably is. Don’t be so quick to accept something so ridiculous especially when it makes absolutely NO sense. I agree with the other beautician - the one who wants to always trim is "scissor happy".

Question: My hair designer wants to clip my ends and I really don't want her to. Looking at my ends it does needs it. She say that by my ends being split my hair will keeping splitting up, until it reaches the hair shaft. Is this true? Also what can I put on my hair to keep my ends in good shape? I know in your book you mention that clipping the ends is not required for growth.

Answer: Don't let her trim your hair if YOU don't want it trimmed!!! She works for you!!! She is also wrong about the splitting up the hair shaft. That is a myth that is perpetuated by the hair care industry. Hair doesn't only split at the ends, it can split anywhere along the hair shaft. Trimming the ends off is not a requirement for hair growth and don't let her fool you on that.

If you find you need more oil, add a little more oil to the conditioner. The only other thing I would do to the ends is put a little hair polish all over the hair and ends. It will help make the ends smoother.

Question: So I found your book, read it, and after three months of not having a perm I got one. My hair had grown a good 1 1/2" but my beautician who is my aunt cut 3/4" off. So my hair is almost the same as I started out with. This really has disappointed me b/c I specifically told her that I did not want to cut my hair at all. Should I try to talk to her about it or should I just switch beauticians?

Answer: Your make the call. She is your aunt and probably thinks she knows best. If you know she will not be receptive, change to someone you can tell what you expect.

Question: I recently found your website and proceeded to order your book, conditioning system and Dew. I am anxiously awaiting their arrival. I have had long hair on and off throughout my life. I've had it cut into a bob, I've had it layered, I've let it grow out and then cut it again to even it up. Recently, I went to my hairdresser for a trim and made the mistake of commenting on how much body her hair had. She then proceeded to layer my hair without telling me until she was finished. It has mostly grown out, but took a long time. The front is still slightly shorter than the back, which is past my shoulders. But right now it seems to be falling out at the root (it has the white follicle on the end), as well as breaking. My hairdresser said it is because of the change in seasons and will stop on its own. This has been going on for about 2 months. Needless to say, I am worried. I have tried a number of different shampoos, conditioners, and moisturizers, but to no avail.

Answer: WRONG- The seasons have nothing to do with your hair breakage or falling out. Most of the products you have been using provide no real benefit for our hair. My conditioner will improve your dry hair condition and stop your breakage. If severe breakage persists, you will need a protein treatment.

Question: On two occasions, when I have gone to my hairdresser for a touch-up, she had to put baby powder in my hair after shampooing because she said my hair was so dry that it was sucking up the oils from the relaxer. I did not over-grease my hair in spite of this because it becomes too stiff. What' up with that?

Answer: Baby powder? I have NEVER heard of this technique. You might want to find someone else to do your hair. This sounds suspicious and I always watch out for the suspicious hair dressers who do ridiculous things like this!

Question: I wanted to give you an update on my hair: remember you told me to ask my hairdresser about using a neutralizer. Well I am not really sure what to think because she had a bottle of the neutralizer at the sink but she also said that a neutralizer is just a marketing tool and it does the same thing a regular shampoo does. Is that true?

My hairdresser also said that at any time she can get the chemist of the product she uses (Design Essentials) and any chemist will tell you the same thing. So I didn’t get a straight answer and feel awkward pressing the issue.

Answer: Baloney! A neutralizer stops the chemical reaction immediately. Air will eventually neutralize the hair too OVER TIME. A neutralizer stops the reaction immediately so the chemical stops working. It is obvious this lady does not know much about chemicals even though she claims to have a Tricologist degree (science of hair)! She appears ignorant to me!

I would suggest you change hairdressers. She sounds too suspicious to me.

Question: I remember you said that you discovered that a hairdresser wasn't using a neutralizer for a year on your hair. And just wondered after you started using one, how long did it take your hair before it stopped breaking?

Answer: The lack of using a neutralizer immediately after the relaxer simply makes the product work longer instead of stopping it. This is bad for the hair. Starting to use a neutralizer after the hair is destroyed by a chemical is not going to help. The hair must be cared for before it is destroyed by a chemical to prevent its destruction.

Question: My hairdresser (who is a Trichologist) said since I had braids for so long that made my hair weak and that's why it’s breaking.

Answer: It does not matter that you had braids for a long time. If you had treated the hair underneath the braids your problems and breakage would be less severe. Protein strengthens the hair instantly. If you did not do the aphogee treatment yourself, I would suggest you get it and do it yourself instead of relying on this ridiculous hairdresser with a fancy title.

Question: My hair seems to be healthy and growing quite well. However, the hair in the back of my head seems to grow faster and fuller than my hair on the sides. My stylist said that it may be because I sleep on my sides.

Answer: Baloney! It has nothing to do with how you sleep! I would suggest that there is possibly more breakage occurring on the sides. Do you sleep in a bonnet or tie your hair up at night? The reason I ask is at one point during my research I noticed that my hair was shorter in the middle of the back of my head. I realized it was matting when I sleep from moving and sweating. When I combed it out, the hair was breaking most in the rear. Try the cap at night and see if that resolves the issue if you are not using one already.

Question: Your conditioner is amazing. Talk about stimulating I have never experienced a conditioner like it before! I don't mean to be bothersome but I really want to get this right. I was also wondering about going to a professional for my hair relaxer. If I go to a professional should I bring my UBH products with me?

Answer: As far as bringing the products to the salon, some hairdressers don’t mind but other do. I don't think it is necessary to take UBH products with you because most of their products are good. It is the maintenance, after the shop that you should be concerned with!

Question: I have recently completed reading your book "Ultra Black Hair Growth" and which was very informative! Thank you for doing such a great job! I was planning to buy the products, but was recently diagnosed with seborreheic dermatitis of the scalp. My dermatologist has advised me that I cannot use oils/products with oils of any kind because they will aggravate my condition. I have type 4B hair that I am currently wearing short because of my problem. Is there anything that I can do to alleviate the dryness of my hair, that is, short of using conditioners (that is all I use at present)?

Answer: Please take this with a grain of salt. I have a problem with the hair care industry and dermatologist because they dont really know our hair but they try to prescribe things for us based on tradition. Tradition has failed us because of the ignorance about our hair.

If your Dermatologist said "no oil on the scalp" I would agree. But what she said was "no oil on the hair." That is very wrong for our dry hair. Avoid the grease on the scalp but my conditioner has oil built in the product that has been known to help others with conditions similar to yours. The oils are put on the hair via the conditioner (which is where it needs to be instead of on the scalp) some oils will get on the scalp but very little. We focus to much on the scalp where our dry hair is really the problem. You will need the oil on your hair via a deep conditioner like mine but avoid "greasing the scalp" as it is not necessary and in turn causes more problems.

Question: I went to a dermatologist because my hair constantly fell out. It was long strands. She said my hair shaft have been damaged by relaxers. She never stated if this situation can be repaired. She prescribed oil for my hair. I have to sleep in it on Friday. I also want to know why you differ with the dermatologist. I will take what you say in complete confidence.

Answer: Your hair is breaking at the weakest point of the hair between the new growth and the chemical. Laying oil on the hair will not help you. You need protein first then oils that are used under a dryer so the hair shaft can swell open and the oils go inside.

No need to keep what I say in confidence. I am very vocal about exposing the truth especially when it is a professional professing something that I know is wrong.

Question: I get my hair done at the Dominican salon every 5-7 days. Is that sufficient enough washing of the hair?

Answer: Michelle, getting your hair done at the salon once a week is an okay interval for washing your hair. Do not go longer than one week.

Question: I need to maintain a professional style for work and you are my last resort. I also would like to know if you can refer me to a salon in the Denver area.

Answer: My hairdresser is Ed Gillespie at Venus Salon in Denver. I have used him over a year based on the recommendation of a friend. He knows what I want and will not do anything that I do not want done. He listens to your concerns which is a good thing and so many hairdresser do not. (I am correcting him on some things that he has been mislead about - like the split ends thing) Ed is very good and very busy. Give him a call at 303-320-3808 to make an appointment and tell him I sent you.

Question: I was wondering if you can answer my question. I got my hair trimmed in May now people are telling me that they think that I should get another trim. I really don't think that my hair needs a trim that bad. I was actually planning on waiting a year to see how long my hair grows then trimming it. Unfortunately, I can't go to my hair dresser because her trim is like a cut and since May I have been following your routine and have noticed my hair has grown a lot. I don't want to get rid of the length. What advice do u have?

Answer: Change hairdressers! If you don't want a trim she should not be allowed to do one on you. Get up and walk out if she attempts it. I am very passionate about not getting trims when you don't want one. Yes you can wait a year before having a trim if you think it is not necessary, you be your own judge, not some hairdresser!

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