Moisturizer Hair Tips: Better Than Oil

Question: I have been using Motions moisturizer on my hair as you don't recommend All Ways anymore. What are you using now that All Ways has changed their formula?

Answer: I use UBH Satin Crème Moisturizer and Silky Spray regularly.

Question: Is it true that you should avoid moisturizing products that contain mineral oil and petrolatum?

Answer: Mineral oil and petrolatum are not moisturizers they are lubricants. They sit on the hair like liquid saran wrap. The biggest problem is that they don’t penetrate and go were the oil is really needed which is the innermost part of the hair. Conduct this test yourself. Take a graham cracker and put it in a glass of mineral oil and leave it for about an hour. A graham cracker, no matter how long it sits in the mineral oil will not absorb it. A graham cracker is more porous than your hair yet it never absorbs the mineral oil. These oils just sit on your hair, not penetrating the hair where the oil actually needs to be, thus the reason they are not the best oils for our hair.

Question: I cannot use a spray type of moisturizer it just makes my hair kinky. What do you suggest?

Answer: I suggest a creme moisturizer if you think you need more oils.

Question: Is Keratin a form of protein or is it OK in a moisturizer?

Answer: Keratin is protein and it NOT good in a moisturizer, because protein makes the hair hard purposely.

Question: Have you ever tried KeraCare jojoba oil moisturizer?

Answer: Nope, I have never tried it.

Question: I need to stimulate my scalp as often as I can. At the moment, I am using your hair care guide, I have read your book and I am using your products. I wash my hair once a week. I love the feel of the conditioner on my scalp. Would it hurt if I put a few drops of pure menthol or peppermint oil in the Spray moisturizer?

Answer: If you don’t mind smelling minty it is not a problem however, Silky Spray is not for the scalp and the scalp is what you are trying to stimulate. There is no need to put a stimulant in your moisturizer.

Question: How straight will my hair be using the Silky Spray and flat iron? I am used to my hair being pretty smooth and straight. If I don't blow dry it, my hair will be very "puffy" and wild.

Answer: Although my hair is all natural since 2004, I also prefer straight style. I tell you exactly how I straighten my natural hair in my blog post “How does Cathy get her natural straight” on

Question: I noticed that on the Silky Spray bottle, it says that it gives your hair shine, but my hair didn't seem to be very shiny.

Answer: Silky Spray makes the hair shine when it is used with a flat iron or curling iron.

Question: Brushes are okay for maintenance but not to be used to stimulate hair growth. Would you suggest that I use other products as a supplement to the Silky Spray or is using the conditioner once a week and then applying the Silky Spray daily enough for my hair?

Answer: It depends on how dry your hair is and how you style. Some people use the Silky Spray and that works for them. Others like the Satin Crème moisturizer. Some people also like to use them both together. It really depends on how dry YOUR hair is and YOUR style.

Question: I tried All Ways moisturizer, but I have a better one, as that one left my hair drier and drier with each use. I would like to know if you've ever tried Clairol's Textures and Tones creme hairdress? That is what I use. Yes, the first ingredient is water, just as you recommend. It does have more oil than the All Ways product, but I find that it gives my hair a softness and shine.

Answer: I have never used the crème hairdress you mentioned because I do not put grease on my hair. I use UBH Satin Creme Moisturizer and it has a lot of oil. Use what you have found works.

Question: What is your view point on moisturizers that have mineral oil or petrolatum as an ingredient? I know Motions has mineral oil listed first in their ingredients. Do you know of any other cream moisturizers that can be used with the Silky Spray?

Answer: Many creme moisturizers contain mineral oil and petrolatum . These ingredients are not good because they really don’t penetrate the hair. We now manufacture Satin Creme Moisturizer which is the best creme on the market! No greasy mineral oil or petrolatum. It actually penetrates the hair shaft to get to the source of the dryness!

Question: Is an oil considered moisturizing? (I'm not talking about petroleum based grease).

Answer: Oil is NOT a moisturizer! Oils seal in moisture if moisture is there but only coats the hair when it is just laid on the hair without heat!

Question: I tried your spray moisturizer product but found that it is not good for me at this point because I am still trying to get my hair into good shape and I need oils. So do you think this hair spray I found (which has many oils and isobutene in it) is okay to use as a moisturizer?

Answer: Hairspray is not a moisturizer I don’t care how much oil you put in it!

Question: Would it be okay to use a quick moisturizer when I don't have time to sit and comb Pink Lotion through my hair??

Answer: Why on earth would you COMB Pink Oil through your hair? Use a light conditioner and rinse out if you don’t have time to deep condition.

Question: I was wondering what your experience with Pink Oil was and why it’s not one of your favorites?

Answer: Pink Oil is very greasy and it used to stink. I also think it is too greasy.

Question: I stopped using your spray moisturizer on a daily basis because it makes my hair frizzy and takes away the straightness even thought I mist very lightly. Instead I have been using a hair polisher to add moisture. Is this okay?

Answer: NO, it is not okay - hair polish is NOT a moisturizer!

Question: Has anyone ever said that when they use the Silky Spray moisturizer on wet hair and let it air dry their hair comes curly/wavy? Is that OK for your hair to do that?

Answer: Because people are different as well as not everybody’s hair responds the same to every product, Silky spray doesn’t really cause the hair to wave if the hair is not wavy already. Air drying simply allows the hair to coil back in its own curl pattern even if it is relaxed. It may not be as curly as the unprocessed hair but it still keeps the curl pattern it previously had except a little straighter. When using under the dryer, the heat helps loosen the curl. Is it okay for the hair to do that, it is not a problem if it does, it is just your personal preference that should be the deciding factor as to whether you like this or prefer to dry with the dryer to obtain a bit straighter look.

Question: I have started using your products over the weekend. I have natural hair and find your products to make my hair softer (from the first use) but it also looks very dry and dull. Can you recommend something else to use as well as your spray?

Answer: Our satin creme moisturizer is excellent for giving you the oils you need and it makes the hair soft. Hair polish is the remedy for dull hair.

Question: Please share with me specifically which Motions Moisturizer you use and which "Polish" do you use?

Answer: After we formulated our own crème moisturizer, I no longer am using Motions. As far as the hair polish I use, I just pick any hair polish off the shelf that does not contain alcohol.

Question: Do you think Gold Medal's Lavendar Creme Moisturizer is a good product for the hair? They boast of having collagen, lecithin, and protein as three beneficial products for the hair. I know you mentioned protein is not good. What do you think and what do you now recommend as a moisturizer since All Ways has added alcohol and protein to their moisturizer?

Answer: Angela, how are the ingredients Gold Medal mentions beneficial for the hair? Unless they can tell you how they benefit the hair they are merely additives. I have only found protein to be beneficial of the ingredients you listed and depending on how protein is used the same can have an adverse effect. Protein should not be used when you moisturize your hair! It makes the hair hard. You are mistaken about my saying protein not being good. I have NEVER said that. It just must be used then rinsed from the hair. As far as what I recommend now, I only use and recommend my Silky Spray and Satin Crème Moisturizer exclusively.

Question: I recently read your book, and I am excited to start using these techniques in caring for my natural and very kinky hair(I like it that way). I'm looking for a creme moisturizer suitable for use. I found one called Profectiv- Megagrowth anti-breakage strengthener. I know that you don't endorse products that you haven't tried, but I was wondering if you can tell me if the ingredients are possibly acceptable for use. They are as follows: Soybean oil, Water and Horsetail Extract and Sage Extract and Nettle Extract, Laneth 15, Lanolin, Steareth-2, Steareth-20, Polyquaternium-37, Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate and PPG-1 Trideceth-6, Phenyl Trimethicone, Dimethicone, Collegen, Keratin, Wheat Protein, Panthenol, DMDM Hydantoin, Corn oil and BHA and BHT, Methyl Paraben, Propyl Paraben, Fragrance. I don't know a lot about choosing a moisturizer as opposed to an oil or grease (I a new grease free baby). If this does not sound acceptable, could you tell me how to choose a good moisturizer (what ingredients to look for, etc.).

Answer: Anetra, although I do not endorse products that I have never used, I would under no circumstances even suggest this product is okay because the first ingredient is not water. The first ingredient must be water NOT Oil. Please look for another product. My Satin Crème is the only moisturizer I recommend now.

Question: I press my hair, so I use a creme moisturizer (Gold Medal's Lavender Creme Moisturizer). Do you still use and recommend Motions?

Answer: No I do not recommend Motions I only recommend UBH Satin Crème or my Silky Spray. Depending on my style, Silky Spray provides immediate moisture with my Satin Crème to help lock moisture in. Since I am all natural now, I only use my Satin crème on a daily basis.

Question: Do you use the "Motions Light Oil Moisturizer Hair Lotion"?

Answer: I don’t use Motions at all any more since developing UBH Satin Crème Moisturizer.

Question: Hi, it's me Melissa once again. I am e-mailing you because I took your advice, and I am using the conditioner you recommended (Ultra Black Hair) and also the moisturizer (Aphogee) for brittleness and the leave in moisturizer. But still my hair is very dry. Whenever I comb my hair the comb snags middle ways and I have to pull pretty hard to go all the way through. Do you think I should get a short natural hair cut or cut my hair where the comb snags? Or are there also other hair products I should be using. Will you please help me?

Answer: I think there is a misunderstanding here. I have never advised you to use the moisturizer Aphogee sells! The only aphogee product I recommend is their protein treatment. If you are using their moisturizer, this probably the reason your hair is still dry. Any moisturizer they offer will not contain the necessary ingredients needed to soften afro hair. Get rid of that moisturizer as it will not adequately provide your hair with the correct balance of moisture our hair needs. I really can not tell you to cut your hair because that is a decision you have to make. But don’t make it short because you have not found the right combination of products yet.

My Silky Spray will help relieve your hair of tangles. It is so effective that you can spray it on a section of your hair and literally comb your hair with your fingers. My crème moisturizer is the best moisturizer for our hair and will help soften your hair, while providing the right balance of moisture our hair needs.

Question: Hello Ms. Howse, What do you recommend I put on my OVERLY dry ends? I deep condition but I just started. The ends of my hair seem very dry. I use the spray but is there anything else I should use?

Answer: It might be better to use our satin crème moisturizer for a while. When I first started treating my own hair, I used Moisture Max which is very oily. I just don't care for heavy oil. Use my satin crème moisturizer and see if that helps eliminate your dryness problems.

Question: I ordered your book and your hair products. I've been using them for 2 weeks now. My hair is still very dry!! I use your spray moisturizer and Mizani moisturizing hairdressing creme. What is a good creme moisturizer to use? What ingredients should I be looking for: Lanolin, Primrose Oil?

Answer: Try spraying on my spray moisturizer then apply UBH Satin Creme moisturizer if you think you need more oil. I really must warn you that perhaps the Mizani hairdressing; if it contains protein could be what is making your hair still feel dry. Instead of trying to tell you what CAN be in our moisturizer I will tell you what should not be in it. A good moisturizer will not contain or protein.

Question: Will stimulants added to my daily moisturizer increase circulation and promote hair growth? I'm referring to sage, peppermint, rosemary, menthol, tea tree oil, camphor etc.?

Answer: Adding a stimulant to your daily moisturizing products will leave you smelling "minty or mediciny" - not exactly how I want to be remembered as having smelly hair. Plus it is not necessary to constantly stimulate the scalp. It is necessary just often enough to keep the hair cells producing and getting rid of waste. Constant stimulation is not necessary and will not make the hair cells produce faster.

Question: Currently I'm using Soft Sheen Break Through with Dew for a moisturizer. Break Through adds moisture; however, it weights down my hair.

Answer: I do not recommend Break Thru. Not only does it have a lot of mineral oil, it has a lot of protein which makes the hair hard.

Question: My goal is to stop or minimize the breakage, add shine, apply moisturizers that don't weight my down my hair, and add length. I use Break Thru and your spray moisturizer. One difference that I have noticed is that I haven't had the need to make an appointment to get a touch-up!

Answer: You have found the benefit of my spray moisturizer. Get rid of the Break Thru and you will be able to extend your retouch longer.

Question: Can I make a hair moisturizer?

Answer: Why would you want to make a moisturizer? Before our crème moisturizer, I have never made one myself. Try our crème moisturizer; I think you will like it.

Question: I've tried QP Elastra Oil Moisturizer, Luster's Pink Lotion, and others. My hair soaks it up, but I don't want my hair to me weighed down. Is there anything that you recommend?

Answer: A light crème moisturizer like my Satin Creme will not weigh your hair down and it still provides the necessary oils to help lock in moisture. Our Silky Spray lightly misted on chemically process hair provides immediate moisture and when followed by the Satin crème that helps seal in moisture.

Question: Could you recommend a moisturizer I can buy from the store that will leave my hair soft and manageable?

Answer: The only moisturizers I use now are UBH Satin Crème and Silky Spray.

Question: Do you recommend Dudley's PCH Moisturizer?

Answer: I used Dudley's for a short time when I had relaxed hair. Found it was good for about 2 weeks just after a relaxer. In the weeks to come I found it not to provide enough moisture. My hair would be kind of stiff during these times.

Question: I bought and read your 2000 edition of UBH growth, but I still have a few questions. I have very dry hair and I know that you recommend a crème moisturizer for relaxed hair, but what is the difference between a crème and an oil moisturizer and which do you recommend? I'm not sure what product to buy as a daily moisturizer. My hair is relaxed, but my new growth is very coarse, and I also have a dry scalp and dry hair. I'm a college student and on a budget, I buy my hair products from Sally Beauty Supply Store. Could you recommend a daily moisturizer for me?

Answer: The difference between and oil and a crème moisture can be huge! It all depends on the ingredients as to whether they are what I consider the best options for our hair. If oils are the first ingredients, it is not a moisturizer that I would recommend. Initially when I created my spray moisturizer it was because oil moisturizers were too heavy and weighed the hair down. Know the expectations of most sisters who have afro hair, I later developed my crème moisturizer that is both light and non-greasy. As far as recommending a moisturizer, to pick up in the beauty supply store, for a student on a budget, I don’t have a suggestion. But what I will say is invest in hair products that improve your hair. You will find that spending a little more on a better products will save you money in the long run because you don’t have to keep replacing the $5 bottle of something that does not work.

Question: I was wondering what you know about Luster's Pink Oil Moisturizer? I use that along with your spray moisturizer and was wondering if that was sufficient. I do not perm or press my hair. I just wear it natural 98% of the time and only flat iron it when something really important comes up (which is rarely).

Answer: Yes that is sufficient if you are not having a lot of breakage. Pink Oil is just not one of my personal favorites. I prefer UBH Satin Crème, but Pink Oil is okay if you like it.

Question: I press my hair, will your spray moisturizer revert pressed hair?

Answer: Yes, it will revert pressed hair. Try my Satin Crème moisturizer on your natural hair. It is what I use daily when my natural hair is blown dry and flat ironed. Have you tried using my Silky Spray moisturizer with your blow dryer and flat iron. This is what I do and it makes my natural hair like silk. It is much better than using the pressing comb!

Question: I use IC Hair Polisher with Aloe Vera to moisturize daily. It is non-greasy. Is that a good moisturizer?

Answer: Do not be mislead, IC Hair Polish is NOT a moisturizer - I use hair polish too but the purpose of a hair polish is to smooth the cuticle of the hair. It is not a moisturizer!!

Question: I thought IC Hair Polisher was moisturizing my hair because its been so soft. Do I need to use a moisturizer every day or is a deep treat 1x a wk enough?

Answer: IC was softening your hairs cuticle not moisturizing it. Hair grease will soften too temporarily but it does not moisturize. I use a hair polish too but only to smooth the cuticle. Protein will make the hair hard and hair polishes will make the cuticle smooth and less tangled. Great product but it does not moisturize. You will still need to moisturize daily. Once a week is not enough when you go to the salon and moisturizing is different than a deep conditioning treatment. You are thirsting for so much knowledge and you will find your answers in the Ultra Black Hair Growth Book!

Question: I was interested in buying your spray moisturizer. I noticed that the first ingredient is water. Does the spray make the hair wet? This concerns me because you mentioned that we could use the spray along with the flat iron for a smoother hair style. If it goes on wet, won't it cause the iron to burn the hair? Also, I do not want it to make my hair frizzy.

Answer: Danielle, The water is necessary for the moisture. The spray is not sprayed on to soak the hair, but lightly misted. It should not make your hair frizzy if you don't use too much. As far as using to achieve a smoother hair style, this is done when the hair is dried with the spray on it then the flat iron is used after the hair is dry. On a daily basis, if your hair is relaxed, misting the spray on will be all you do and it does not make the hair "wet" if you use sparingly. You may even find my crème moisturizer is a better alternative for your natural hair daily moisturizing needs!

Question: Cathy, I visited your website because I am in search of a good moisturizer. I looked on the ingredients of your spray product and noticed that the first ingredient is water. Now I know that usually the abundance of the ingredients in a product is listed in decreasing amount. Now I think you are right on target with the fact that black hair has little moisture and it is dry. I believe the hair cannot hold very much moisture, but the little that it does hold goes a very long way. I have also heard Andre Walker say that water is the best moisturizer. My point is: are you basically selling a bottle of water. Also the cones that you put in the product, why did you include those? I have read that if silicone is used a lot it can build up on the hair and have a drying effect. It just seems to me that all black women have to do to achieve this moisture balance that you speak of is to make the hair moist with water and use something that will lock in that moisture, which more than likely will be an oil. I know this system works for you as it is proved by the hair length you have attained, so not trying to knock you.

Answer: If you are familiar with hair polish, they include the "cones" as you say. (Cyclomethicone, Dimethicone) The "cones" smooth the cuticle. Very important if you use protein, because protein makes the hair hard IF not moisturized. My spray moisturizer is far from being just water because water evaporates leaving your hair unprotected after it dries. In addition to the water in my spray moisturizer, it contains the "cones" to help smooth the cuticle and oils to help lock in moisture. I have yet to experience the "drying effect" you mention about the use of silicone. My experience with the industry is they really don't address OUR hair the way I approach it. I have even been repeatedly rebuked for my constant use of protein. The excessive use of protein is bad if the proper moisturizing treatments are not performed afterwards. Since 1997 I have been using my spray moisturizer on my hair in addition to other products with "silicone" in them and perhaps because I am religious about moisturizing, the problem you mention, I have not experienced. Until I experience otherwise, I will continue to use and recommend them!

Also don't believe everything you read because the majority of the stuff out there is written by the industry and I personally do not trust very much of what they have to offer about our hair care since they have “missed the boat” for decades!

Question: I want to be good and sure I follow your program. Concerning the spray and creme moisturizers; Do I use one or the other or can I use both? By the way, I love feeling the Conditioner tingle on my scalp. Is this the stimulating action you speak about in your book?

Answer: Olanre, you can use both a creme and the spray separately or both together. Which moisturizer you use depends on your hair style. If your hair is natural and pressed (blown dry and ironed) you probably will not use the spray daily because it will revert your hair. On the other hand, if your hair is chemically processed, either moisturizer will work for you or you may also want to use them together.

Yes, the conditioner tingling you feel is what I mention in the book

Question: I received your book yesterday and I spent the entire night reading it from end to end. I have to say Bravo to you, it's easy to read and full of common sense information. I'm going to start the process this weekend, I have to purchase a heat cap and I'm ordering your conditioner and mist today. I realize that the way I've been wearing my hair is good. I threw away my brush and I like the wet and spiral curl look which means I will hardly need a curling iron. I use a leave-in moisturizer my sister gave me but it has Alcohol Denat in it, Seed oil, wheat protein, hydrogenated castor oil and off course other chemicals. But I 'm don't like the fact it has alcohol. What is your opinion on the Alcohol deal?

Answer: Good for You on throwing that silly brush away! Forget about achieving any REAL benefits from the leave-in conditioner. At best they will only cosmetically coat your hair. The benefits of a good conditioner needed for our hair must strengthen, lubricate and stimulate. Instant conditioners cannot do this because heat is required to penetrate.

I am very cognizant of "alcohol" in my products. The alcohol used in my products is crème alcohols. Very different than Isopropyl alcohol or alcohols used in hair spray which are very drying to the hair. My philosophy is: avoid products that include alcohol like the plague if you don’t know what it is!

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